Cyprus-born chef-partner Christos Christou operates on the refined edge of Astoria’s Greek-dining spectrum at Aegean Cove. The large main room, painted a deep, autumnal gold, has a dark-wood bar and access to a rooftop terrace. Christou’s an alum of Manhattan’s Milos and Avra, so classics here have exceptional flavor and some flair. The dips platter features an unexpectedly hot and smoky red-pepper spread, and grilled octopus arrives as the tender ideal. Christou’s estiatorio experience means ocean-fresh, delicately grilled fish, but he also turns out brawny meat dishes including gamy louganika sausage and lamb shanks braised to confitlike tenderness. Desserts also offer some tasty surprises, like the delicious chocolate baklava
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